Mountaineering
Pobeda Peak 7439 m
Conditions: Members carry out ascents and choose tactic for ascent them-selves. They have their own outfit, which is necessary for ascent.
Service: All transfers from Bishkek to Base camps and back, accommodations in hotels, radio connection, full board, all formality.
Note: All necessary food (bread, butter, sugar and others) is provided by our organization, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food.
Season: 10 of July - 20 of August. The size of the group is not limited
For additional payment: Helicopter flight from Issyk-Kul lake to Maida-Adyr, helicopter show-flight over the peaks, helicopter transfer to the route, preparing of the route by guides, accompaniment by guides, helicopter flight to the lower camp for rest and other services.
The most northern 7000 m. Peak of our planet is Pobeda peak (7439 m). The gigantic wall of the peak rises above Zvezdochka glacier on 3000 m. High and takes the space between the passes of Chon-Teren (5488 m) and Dikiy (5200 m.) - more than 10 km. The whole massive is a huge snow-ice wall, whose crest lone is above 7439 m. Severe weather conditions, low air temperature, high level of precipitation allows to compare climbing Pobeda's peak with ascent of Hymalaian giants. The most complicated routes go on the northern wall to the eastern Pobeda. We offer the ascent of the most popular route which goes from Dikiy pass (5200 m.) across Vazha Pschavela peak (6918 m).
Plan of arriving to the Base Camp and tactic of ascent
- Arrive to Bishkek.
- Transfer from Bishkek to Karakol (400 km) situated on the Shore of Issyk-Kul Lake.
- Transfer from Karakol over Chon-Ashu pass (3822 m) to Maida-Adyr staging camp (2540 m.)
- Helicopter flight to the Base Camp on the Southern Inylchek glacier. The camp is situated near the slopes of Treglavy peak on 4000 m above sea level.
- Acclimatizing outgoing to the route and organization of high-altitude camps. Trip along Zvezdochka glacier (15 km) to the northern wall and organization of the camp 1.
- Ascent along the icefall to Dikiy Pass (5200 m). Organizing camp 2. Spending night there.
- Ascent along the northern crest of Vazha Pshavela peak up to 5800 m and organization camp 3.Spending night there.
- Acclimatizing ascent of 6000 m.Descent and spending night in camp 3.
- Descent along the route of ascent to the Base Camp.
- Day of rest and preparation for the ascent.
- Start of ascent. During 2 days ascent to camp 3.
- Ascent along the northern crest up to 6200 m. Organization of camp 4. Spending night there.
- Ascent of Vazh Pshavel peak (6900 m). Organization of camp 5.
- Travers along the western crest up to 7200m. Camp 6.
- Ascent of the peak and descent to camp 6.
- Descent along the route of ascent to camp 3.
- Descent to the Base Camp on the Southern Inylchek glacier.
- Flight from the Base Camp to Maida Adyr staging camp and return by car to Bishkek.
The whole program from the day of arriving to the return takes 25 days taking into account reserve days in case of bad weather.
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