Mountaineering
Khan-Tengry Peak 7000m
Conditions: Members carry out ascents and choose tactic for ascent them-selves. They have their own outfit, which is necessary for ascent.
Service: All transfers from Bishkek to Base camps and back, accommodations in hotels, radio connection, full board, all formality.
Note: All necessary food (bread, butter, sugar and others) is provided by our organization, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food.
Season: 20 of June - 30 of August. The size of the group is not limited.
For additional payment: Helicopter flight from Issyk-Kul lake to Maida-Adyr, helicopter show-flight over the peaks, helicopter transfer to the route, preparing of the route by guides, accompaniment by guides, helicopter flight to the lower camp for rest and other services.
The grand marble pyramid of Khan-Tengri peak is situated in the upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek glacier. It is the highest and most beautiful peak of Tengry-Tag range. There are dozens of the most difficult routes to the peak. In this program we offer the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak along the most popular route - it is the most accessible and safe ascent to the peak along the western rib from Semenovsky glacier.
Plan of arriving to the Base Camp and tactic of ascent
- Arrive to Bishkek.
- Transfer from Bishkek to Karakol (400 km) situated at the shore of the Issyk-Kul Lake.
- Transfer from Karakol over the Chon-Ashu pass (3822 m) to Maida-Adyr staging camp (2540 m).
- Helicopter flight to the Base Camp on the southern Inylchek glacier. The camp is situated near the slopes of Teglavy peak on 4000 m above sea level.
- Acclimatizing outgoing to the rout and organization of high-altitude camps. Ascent along the Southern Inylchek glacier to its confluence with Semenovsky glacier. Organization and spending night in camp 1.
- Ascent along Semenovsky glacier to the western crest of Khan-Tengry peak. Organization and spending night in the camp 2.
- Ascent along the western crest up to the altitude of 6300-6400 m. And return to camp 2. Spending night there.
- Descent and return to the Base Camp.
- Day of rest and preparation for the ascent.
- During next two days - ascent to staging camp 2. Along the route.
- From camp 2 - ascent up to the altitude of 6300-6400 m. and organization of camp 3 the most complicated - art of the ascent begins. Ascent up to the altitude of 6700 m. and organization of camp 4. Spending night there.
- From camp 4 participants ascent the peak and return to camp 3.
- Descent along the route of ascent to camp 2 and then to camp 1.
- Return to the Base Camp.
- Flight from the Base Camp to Maida-Adyr staging camp and then transfer by car to Bishkek.
The whole program from the day of arriving to the return takes 20 day taking info account reserve days in case of bad weather.
Pobeda peak - Khan-Tengry, region description
Northern and Southern Inylchek glaciers are situated in the highest part of Kyrgyzstan that is called Muztag. This is place of permafrost great glaciers and high peaks.
Four ranges form Muztag region: Sarydzhas range, Tengry-Tag range, Kokshaal-Too range and Meridionalny range. Southern Inylchek is the second biggest glacier in post soviet republics. Its length is 62 km and its width is 3,5 km, the thickness of ice is more than 200 m. There are two 7000 m peaks - Pobeda peak (7439 m) and Khan-Tengry peak (7000 m) and about 30 peaks of more than 6000 m. and also many peaks of 4000 - 5000 m with different levels of difficulty, from simple to sheer walls in the upper reaches of this glacier; among them are peaks, which nobody has ever climbed.
The famous Merzbacher Lake is situated at the confluence of the Northern and the Southern Inylchek glaciers. The lake is very interesting, because once in a year it breaks out into Inylchek River, in the first half of April. The mechanism of breaking out is still unexplored.
Climate conditions there are rather severe. The Base Camp is situated on 4000 m above the sea level, and more then 50% of its territory is covered with eternal snow. At daytime the temperature in the fine weather is up to +7 - 150C. At night the temperature is usually below 00C.
Above 5000m climate is mostly Arctic. The weather in this region is extremely unstable with frequent snowfalls, that don t allow to ascent to Khan-Tengry and Pobeda peaks in a bad weather. The Base Camp is situated on the sidelong moraine of the Southern Inylchek glacier near the slopes of Treglvy peak. There are double camping, kitchen, canteen and sauna in the camp and that allows making life of expedition comfortable.
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