Mountaineering
Lenin Peak 7134 m
Conditions: Members carry out ascents and choose tactic for ascent them-selves. They have their own outfit, which is necessary for ascent.
Service: All transfers from Bishkek to Base camps and back, accommodations in hotels, radio connection, full board, all formality.
Note: All necessary food (bread, butter, sugar and others) is provided by our organization, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food.
Season: 20 of June - 30 of August
For additional payment: Helicopter flight over the region, guide-instructors (working out the route, pitching intermediate camp, cooking while trekking, etc.). The ascent is in expedition style.
One of the most popular routes among routes to Kyrgyz seventhousenders is classical route to Lenin Peak (7.134 m). It is situated on the northern slopes of Lenin Peak and begins from Achic-Tash plateau in the Alay Valley. There are two proposed routes from the base camps on the "Lukovaya" glade of the "Achic-Tash" Valley.
The first route is an ascent of the peak from the east along "Lipkin's rock", the second route lies from the west over the Razdelnaya peak (6.148 m). Ascent goes along the giant snow-ice fields and mountaineers don't need any of the complex alpinist equipment. Stay and rest is provided in the cozy Base Camp on the "Lukovaya" glade, which is on 3.600 m above the sea level.
Plan of arriving to the Base Camp and tactic of ascent
- Arrive to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.
- Flight from Bishkek to Osh city. Hotel accommodation.
- Excursion around Osh and to the Osh market.
- Transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp.
- Acclimatization. Ascent to Camp 1 (4200 m), Camp 2 (5300 m), Camp 3 (6100m) and descent to Base Camp. It takes 7 days.
- Day of rest.
- Ascent to the Lenin Peak and descent to Base Camp (10 days).
- Transfer to Osh city.
- Flight to Bishkek.
- Return home.
Lenin peak, region description
The northernmost of Pamir's ranges is Zaalai range rising as a gigantic wall over Alai valley. The central part of Zaalai range is the highest and the most monolithic. Its length is 92 km and its average height is about 6000 m. There are many peaks of more then 6000 m, and the highest point is Lenin peak (7134 m). The largest glaciers of Zaalai range - Lenin glacier, Korzhenevskogo, Oktyabrsky, Big Sauk-Dara, Small Sauk-Dara glaciers fall down from the Lenin peak, the total area of these glaciers is about 800 sq.km.
The southern slope is sheer and rocky. Its valleys look like hanging towards the Muksuu River. It's hardly accessible region.
The northern slope facing Alai valleys is wide and gently sloping, there are neither deep valleys without high spurs. This easily accessible region has highways.
The length of the Lenin glacier is 13,5 km; its area is 55,3 sq.km. It's the largest hollow - glacier of the northern Zaalai slopes. It has wide neve fields on the slopes of Lenin Peak and a short tongue. The surface of the glacier is clear, with a few cracks. The Base Camp Achik-Tash (3600 m) is situated at the bottom of Lenin glacier on the Achik-Tash plateau with plenty of blue lakes. Comfortable location of the camp and warm weather conditions allow having a good rest after high ascents.
Easy approaches to the near tops allow mountaineers to get good acclimatization for the ascent to Lenin Peak. Climate conditions in the Base Camp's area are gentler than in other regions of Pamir. The overage temperature in July is +100C.
Slopes of Lenin Peak are snow-ice fields. There are no sheer crests and slopes, and it allows to ascent without complicated mountaineer technique.
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